Here's a simple loom that will make your tablet weaving a little easier!
I call it the "Henry" loom, named after my ancestor, Henry Swan, who was a
professional weaver in the late 1700's.
I also sell an instructional video. See http://www.thescholarsgarret.com/loom
It's based mostly on a type of tablet-weaving loom that I saw in
Collingwood's "Techniques of Tablet Weaving" (which I believe is currently
available through Robin and Russ Handweavers Inc., 533 North Adams St.,
McMinnville, OR, 97128), but I've really simplified the warp reel and added
a couple of little conveniences.
Main advantages of this loom:
Materials:
The body of the loom is made from the four foot length of 2 X 6 pine. (Actually, I saw it to be about 3'11", so that it will easily fit crosswise in my car. Measure your car...) The four pieces of 1 X 6 pine, cut 9" long, are for the three uprights and the warp reel. If you want more than one warp reel, get more 1 X 6 pine. The 1" X 1" hardwood (such as birch or maple) will be cut into two 6" lengths for the cloth take-up. The dowel will be cut into 6 equal lengths, and will be used on the warping board.
Cut grooves into the back of the loom as in figure 1. These grooves should
be just wide enough that the 1 X 6 can be pushed in... any wider and
there'll be too much play in the loom. Cut the end grooves to leave 2" of
wood between the upright and the end of the back.
Figure 1
Screw the two hooks into the face of an upright as marked in figure 2a.
Figure 2a
Cut a "U" shape in another upright, as in figure 2b.
Figure 2b
Cut a long, tapering notch into the piece of 1 X 6 that you're going to use
as a warp reel, as shown in figure 2c.
Figure 2c
Using pliers, bend the hooks as in figure 3.
Figure 3
Drill 1/2" holes in the bottom of the loom, as in figure 4. These holes
should be about 1" deep... they must NOT go through to the other side! The
exact placement of these holes is not critical, but they should not be
directly under an upright and the trianges at each end should be fairly
close to equilateral.
Figure 4
Install the uprights as in figure 5. Secure them with screws from the
bottom.
Figure 5
The cloth take-up is the only part of the loom that's at all difficult.
Drill holes in both of the 6 inch lengths of 1 X 1 hardwood as shown in
figure 6. The holes should be exactly as far apart as are the hooks on the
upright at the head of the loom.
Figure 6
Cut a 12" length of wire coathanger, bend in into a square "U" shape, and thread the blocks onto it, as shown in figure 7. Using pliers, bend the free ends into "eyes" that will slip over the hooks.
Figure 7
In use, the take-up is threaded as in figure 8. I've found that the easiest
way to tighten it is to slip it off the hooks (keeping it under a bit of
tension), slide the cloth through the take-up, and then stretching it to put
it back on the hooks.
Figure 8
Using the loom:
To make your warp, flip the loom over, using the uprights like legs. Put
the dowel pieces into the holes and warp your pack of cards in your
favourite manner. When done, tie a knot at the far end of the warp and slip
the warp into the notch in the warp reel. The knot will keep it from
pulling through. Wind the warp on the reel.
Weaving the first foot or so can be awkward. I have a piece of band that I
use to help me get started: I affix one end of it to the warp and then use
it in the take-up as though it were the cloth that I was weaving. When my
band is long enough to fit into the take-up, I remove my starter band and
set it aside for the next project.
That's it! Easy to build, easy to use.